期刊论文

Laboratory study of wave processes over reef coasts under the impact of an excavation pit with varying pit locations

中文

热带海洋学报

1009-5470

2021

40

04

14-21

10.11978/2020081

51839002:国家自然科学基金 51679014:国家自然科学基金 2020JJ4618:湖南省自然科学基金 CX20200857:湖南省研究生科研创新项目

本校为第一机构

为研究珊瑚礁坪上采掘坑位置变化对珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形的影响,本文通过物理模型试验测试了采掘坑在不同位置和无坑情况下一系列不规则波工况的波浪特征。结果表明,随着采掘坑位置朝岸线附近移动直至无坑时,岸线附近的短波波高逐渐减小;采掘坑的存在减弱了岸线附近的低频长波波高,当采掘坑位于岸线附近时,长波波高还受到局部水深增加的影响而进一步减弱。采掘坑从礁缘移动至岸线附近直到无坑时,岸线附近的增水逐渐增大,这种趋势在礁坪水深较大时更为明显。通过相干函数分析,证明了礁坪上低频长波是由于短波群破碎点的移动而产生,采掘坑位置的变化对低频长波的产生无明显影响;通过传递函数分析...

To study the effect of varying the location of an excavation pit on wave transformation over the coral reef coast, we tested a series of irregular wave conditions with different pit locations using physical model experiments. We then compared them with the case in the absence of excavation pit. Results show that as the location of the excavation pit moves towards the shoreline until the case with no pit, the short-wave height near the shoreline decreases. The existence of excavation pit also reduces the low-frequency wave height near the shoreline. When the excavation pit is located near the s...