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Fully nonlinear investigation on energy transfer between long waves and short-wave groups over a reef

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成果类型:
期刊论文
作者:
Liu, Ye;Yao, Yu;Liao, Zhiling;Li, Shaowu;Zhang, Chi;...
通讯作者:
Liao, Zhiling(z.liao@hw.ac.uk);Li, Shaowu(lishaowu@tju.edu.cn)
作者机构:
[Li, Shaowu; Liu, Ye; Liao, Zhiling] Tianjin Univ, State Key Lab Hydraul Engn Simulat & Safety, Tianjin 300072, Peoples R China.
[Yao, Yu] Changsha Univ Sci & Technol, Sch Hydraul Engn, Changsha 410114, Hunan, Peoples R China.
[Zou, Qingping; Liao, Zhiling] Heriot Watt Univ, Inst Infrastructure & Environm, Lyell Ctr Earth & Marine Sci & Technol, Edinburgh EH14 4AS, Scotland.
[Zhang, Chi] Hohai Univ, Coll Harbor Coastal & Offshore Engn, Nanjing 210098, Jiangsu, Peoples R China.
[Liao, Zhiling] Heriot Watt Univ, Edinburgh EH14 4AS, Scotland.
通讯机构:
[Liao, Z.] H
[Li, S.] S
State Key Laboratory of Hydraulic Engineering Simulation and Safety, Tianjin University, Tianjin, 300072, China<&wdkj&>The Lyell Centre for Earth and Marine Science and Technology, Institute for Infrastructure and Environment, Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh, EH14 4AS, UK
语种:
英文
关键词:
Long wave;Coral reef;Energy transfer;SWASH;Breakpoint forcing;Radiation stress
期刊:
Coastal Engineering
ISSN:
0378-3839
年:
2023
卷:
179
页码:
104240
基金类别:
We would like to thank Prof. Tom Baldock and Prof. Robert T. Guza for discussing the release condition of bound long waves and nonlinear interaction among harmonics, respectively, Prof. Ap Van Dongeren for providing spectral analysis codes, Prof. Gerd Masselink for discussing the influence of reef submergence, and Dr. Dirk P. Rijnsdorp for helping in setting the SWASH model. This research work was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 52201333 ) and the Open Foundation of Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province (Grant No. 2021SS03 ). Zhiling Liao and Qingping Zou would like to acknowledge the support by Natural Environment Research Council (NERC) of UK (Grant No. NE/V006088/1 ).
机构署名:
本校为其他机构
院系归属:
水利工程学院
摘要:
Long waves are amplified as short-wave groups shoal and break over reefs, therefore, having significant impacts on coastal inundation, structure stability, and sediment transport. This study investigated the cross-reef variation of long-wave energy exchange with short-wave group over a reef using fully nonlinear analysis of simulation results by the non-hydrostatic model SWASH. The objective was to elucidate the mechanisms of long-wave transformation under nonlinear short-wave group forcing over a reef, and to assess the consequences of simplif...

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